A short seven hours by bus later (past Guantanamo Bay) and we were in Santiago de Cuba, busier and edgier than Barracoa it is home to the Moncado Barracks - site of a famous, albeit disastrous, attack of the Revolution and has many grisly photos and artifacts. My casa here, a beautiful old Colonial home, was run by Ilia who spoke no English (did I say my Spanish is improving exponentially!). A short ferry trip takes you to Cayo Grama, a small island dotted with wooden, red roofs and a great little seafood restaurant (don't believe the eguide books about Cuban cuisine being below par - I have the extra kilos to prove it!). At dusk we went to the Castillo de San Pedro de la Roco del Morro, an amazing citadel at the entrance to the harbour and watched another canon firing. Later that night a stroll up the street for a snack resulted in a marathon meal with amigos (two bottles of ron and about a tonne of pork chops) and a lesson about Que Lucha!! (roughly translated as "the daily struggle".
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