Of Mojitos and Mariachi

... my hotel map seemed clear, it was a 20 minute walk away and the Paso de la Reforma is the huge and dotted with monuments - so what's the chance of getting lost? But there I was ... map out in front of Culichi Bichi Cafe and Bar when the owners rescued me.. Replying to my abysmal Spanish in perfect English, Hector pointed out that I could attempt certain death trying to cross eight lanes of traffic OR I could sit at their bar on the street and have a beer... The beer morphed into a jug of mojitos (Hector popping next door to get the mint) and we were amigos .. wandering down after closing to Garibaldi Square to eat cochinita pilit (pork with axiote ... for a split second I thought I was going to be eating lung fish but it's a spice), drink more tequila and listen to Mariachi. The bands filled the square and the bars we were in, small groups of men in traditional (read cool Cisco Kid) costumes playing instruments from trumpets to harps. It costs between $6 - 8 per song or you could hire a group for the evening - common practice amongst groups of Mexican men ... I paid one group to play "Jarebe Loco" - a song from my friend's home town - hilarious... We walked back across town and caught a cab .. day one ...